(I promise the Bass jokes will go away soon.)
So I’ve been tinkering with project Bass-alisk and got the repaired platform done and sliding into the chassis.
But before I start gluing, I still need to figure out a gun shield. Both of my Basilisks will have the same gun shield (to tie them together) but I only have one of the ‘correct’ ones. Bit’s sellers also seem to be out of unique basilisk parts as well, as none have the shields in stock. So I decided I’d measure the one I have and make my own!
I downloaded and fired up FreeCad to help me layout the design. I figure I’ll print out the design, glue it to some plastic and cut the shield out from there.
But, before cutting everything out, I decided to make a mock-up out of cardboard to see how it all fit. Good thing I did, because it didn’t. The bottom cut-outs didn’t clear the track guards. So I’ve redesigned the shield, and we’ll see how everything fits tonight.
I also fixed the gun barrel to match it’s original length, though the new tube isn’t exactly plum, it’ll do.
I then filled the seam from the old barrel to the new with some “Perfect Plastic Putty” (seriously, get yourselves some!) and used a wet cottonswab to blend everything together. I also filled the rest of the seems and fitted a muzzle brake (something else I’ll add to my other Basilisk) I wish I made the muzzle brake longer, but it’s on there now and not going anywhere.
Well, after this post sat in my ‘DRAFTS’ folder for 18 days…
I managed to work on the armor for the front and sides. After designing in CAD and playing around I settled on a pretty basic box (or ‘BAWKS’) as that seems pretty Imperial. I tried to echo the rear slope in the design and think I did pretty good. The enclosure isn’t perfect but version 2.0 should be much better.
I’ll be adding some more plates to the enclosure and rivets (not looking forward to that!) to help give it more of the Imperial Guard look.
Anyways, this was my first attempt at design a part and then building it (simple as it may be) and I’m really happy with how it came out!
Till next time!
Well, I got the long fuselage half cut and sanded (though not as square as I would have liked…) and epoxied back together.
After making sure everything was about as good as I could get it, I washed all the parts and let them dry. I then scored all the surfaces that would see glue, gathered my clamps and rubber bands and beseeched the Omnimessiah to bless my endeavor.
I then mixed up my ‘JB Kwik’ 5-miniute epoxy and went to work. I decided to go with epoxy due to the fact that the parts were all quite large, and the 5 minute working time let me make sure I had everything aligned as best I could.
Don’t worry about any epoxy coming up through the seem, it’ll cut off and sand just fine, in fact it makes a great bulk filler that way.
I did the assembly in two parts, the large piece of the fuselage attached to the unmolested fuselage side and after that was all dry and set, I epoxied the cut down piece to the other two.
After everything was epoxied together I let it cure for an additional two-days just to make sure (and I was reading Taylor Anderson’s newest Destroyermen novel: “Straits of Hell”) everything was set.
Now came the fun part: Mixing and applying greenstuff (kneadatite). Not only was I trying to fix the seams from the fuselage shortening, but I was also trying to fix the area on the front of the fuselage where I had tried to pry the nose off.
After sanding the first layer of filler, I’m ready to apply a finishing layer of filler, but honestly at this point I’m wishing I had just purchased the plastic bits…
On the front of the fuselage I decided to apply a thin piece of plasticard for a mating surface for the nose, it seemed much easier the trying to fill in all the gouges and rents in the resin.
The one tool I couldn’t live with out here was my sanding card. I cut out a rectangular piece of plastic, spray on a coat of spray adhesive and stuck on some wet/dry sandpaper. I put a couple of bricks on the plastic to make sure everything is flat, and viola! a tool that sands straight and allows you to keep hard edges.